Bathroom remodeling in Washington has to respect the air the house already lives in. West of the Cascades the outdoors is damp for months, so a bath with a weak fan, or a fan that dumps into the attic, will spot the ceiling no matter how new the tile looks. East of the mountains the winter air is dry and cold, and the risk is a shower on an outside wall, plus hard water that scales valves and glass.
Start with what is failing. A soft floor at the tub, a stained ceiling under a shower, a fan that barely moves air, a window rotten at the stool, or a layout that no longer fits the house. If the place is older, look at the supply and the drain before a new fixture goes in. Sliding a vanity over a weeping trap wastes the week you just tore the room apart. Say whether the floor under the bath is a crawl, a slab, or another finished room.
Talk through a fan that actually reaches the outside, a floor that can take splash, and a shower that has a real way to drain. Ask where the water heater sits relative to the room. On the wet side, do not trap damp air in a closed soffit above the tub. On the cold side, say so if the current shower already backs onto the weather, because that wall is where a pipe is most exposed. Green board behind old tile that powders when you touch it is structure, not a grout problem.
Bring the town, the floor you are on, and whether this is a change of finishes or a move of the plumbing. If a leak has already reached another room, say that first. Drying comes before tile. Have a photo in mind of the soft spot and of the fan grille. A west-side bath that never dries is not an inland bath that freezes at the valve.
The room will stay humid or stay cold after the new surround is up, so the fan path and the wet wall matter more than the handle you liked. Call with the town and what is already soft. Call the number on this page.
