Windows in San Diego are fighting salt and marine air more than they are fighting extreme heat. Aluminum sliders and older steel frames pit, latches stiffen, and screens rust out even when the glass still looks clear. Morning damp followed by sun fogs failed seals. Beach cottages may still have single-pane wood or metal that lets the breeze in and lets the hardware corrode. Stucco openings hide flashing, so a leak shows up as a stain under the sill rather than as an obvious gap. The mild air is why people delay, and the salt is why delay costs the frame.
Name the actual complaint. A slider that will not lock, a weep track full of grit, a fogged pane, or a wood sash that has gone soft at the sill are different repairs. West light off the water still fades rooms and heats glass once the gray burns off, but this is not the inland oven story. Corrosion on hinges and screws can make a casement feel like a glass problem when the glass is fine. Ground-floor openings on the street side may need hardware that still works after salt exposure. Replacing glass and leaving a pitted frame in a stucco hole does not finish the job.
Water at the opening is the issue to take seriously. Marine wind drives moisture at corners the sun later bakes. A hairline stucco crack at a window corner is a path, not a cosmetic mark. Sills that stay damp grow a film and soften. If only the ocean-facing wall misbehaves, say so. If every slider in a tract house has failed seals, that is a set problem, not a single defect. Rooms under deep eaves behave better than rooms with no shade at all. Describe the wall, not just the view.
When you call, count the openings that stick, fog, leak, or crust with salt. Note aluminum, steel, wood, or a newer frame. Mention whether the house is in direct marine air. The conversation should sort repair of hardware and seals from openings that are actually done.
Call the number on this page.