Roofing in Florida is a fight with sun, wind, and water that arrives sideways. The covering you see is only the top layer. Underlayment, deck, flashing, and the way the edges are fastened decide whether the roof stays a roof when the next blow comes. South slopes cook. Ridges lift. Pipe boots crack in the heat. Start the call with the city, the material, and whether you have a leak, a storm scar, or a covering that is simply used up.
Material follows the map, and it should. Barrel and flat tile show up all over the south and along both coasts, and the tile can look fine while the fasteners and the underlayment have given up. Asphalt shingles cover a huge share of inland and northern houses, and they age from heat as much as from wind. Metal shows up on porches, rural roofs, and some coastal houses. Flat and low-slope roofs on additions fail at the seams and the drains, not in the field where you are staring.
After a storm, slow down before anything is torn off. Photos of the slopes, the ridges, and the openings matter while the evidence is still on the house. A dry-in stops the immediate leak. It is not the same job as a replacement. Ask what would be repaired, what would be replaced, and whether the deck underneath is sound enough to nail to. If a claim is already open, keep the repair talk and the policy talk from blurring. Wind damage on a roof is not flood. Water that came through a missing shingle is not the same sentence as water that rose from the street.
Say what you can see from the ground and what you can see in the attic. Stains at a chimney, a soft deck, granules in the gutters, a ridge that looks peeled back: those are useful details. Mention tile, shingle, or metal, and whether a prior patch is already up there. Mention if the house is on the water or well inland, because salt and wind exposure change what should be specified. Do not wait on a perfect description. Call the number on this page.