Plumbing in Florida hides, and then it does not. A huge share of houses sit on slab, so a supply leak can run under the floor for a long time before a warm spot in the tile gives it away. Older stacks are often cast iron that scales and cracks. Drain lines meet tree roots and a water table that sits high after a wet week, so a line that flowed in the dry stretch backs up when the ground is full. Start with the city and the symptom: supply leak, drain, sewer backup, or water heater.
A main you can find, and fixture stops that actually turn, change a panic into a contained mess. Say whether you have already shut the water down. Say whether the leak is at a visible valve, inside a wall, or only a sound under the slab. A slab leak and a faucet drip are both plumbing. Drain cleaning is not the same as repairing a broken pipe. A cable can open a blockage and leave a belly, a break, or a root problem sitting there for the next wet month.
Water heaters in this state often live in the garage, which is fine until the tank lets go onto the floor and under the door. Say whether the unit is gas or electric, tank or tankless, and whether it is leaking, rumbling, or simply out of hot water. Ask whether a replacement includes the shutoff, the pan and the discharge line, the venting where gas applies, and haul-away. If the house is on a well, say so. Sulfur and iron change how the pipe and the heater age. City water is a different story.
Some older homes still have gray plastic supply lines from the period when that material was common, and those lines have a reputation for letting go at the fittings. If you know you have them, say so. If the house is a tower unit, say that too, because a leak there becomes the ceiling below. Keep storm language accurate. Water from a burst pipe is not flood, and water that rose from the street is not a plumbing repair. Your policy, deductible, and claim are a different call. Call the number on this page.